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Two days in Istanbul

27/11/2015

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It seems to me that Istanbul has achieved a beautiful balance between the west and the east. This city (or at least the parts I've seen) has the wide boulevards and open streets with pretty parks and gardens designed for locals (but used by tourists) that can be found in many European cities. The bits of north African and Asia that I've seen often lack this visual urban openness. The old European city centers, like here, are also dominated by buildings no taller than the strength of your thighs to climb the stairs, where in more modern North American and ever-expanding Asian cities, the sky can only be seen through the narrow slits between office and condo towers, or like in Fez the ancient city's sky is almost impossible to see due to the narrow streets. I know there are skyscrapers here too, but the areas around the harbours haven't been so inundated with them that you lose sight of what has been here for thousands of years. I like the friendly-exoticness of Istanbul.

I also like the food. My ambition of getting into a better bathing suit shape before we hit the beach in South Africa has been thrown out the window. I decided it would be foolish to give up such delicacies for vanities sake...and it's not like the improvement would be so great anyway. I said to George over our hotel's breakfast buffet this morning that God must have Turkish food in heaven. He smiled and  suggested I was being too narrow; he figures God's table wouldn't be so limited and would surely include Dutch cheese, etc. Till I find out for sure, I'll enjoy the food here as much as I can. 

Our first full day in Istanbul we toured the Roman Basilica Cistern that was seen in James Bonds' "From Russia With Love."  (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVtwNzF1BP8) It's an elaborate underground water storage facility that used to be the city's reserve, but now it's a tourist attraction filled with a small amount of water and large carp. While underground we succumbed to the pleading of our little girl for family photos dressed up in clothes like the Sultan's family. Perhaps you saw the image on Facebook, but if not, here it is again. The kids have asked for so little on this trip that this seemed like a good place to indulge them. This will also take place of our usual fall family photos for Barry's parliamentary Christmas cards.
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The Devolins in Istanbul
Our city toured continued into the Grand Bazaar. I'll admit I was a bit disappointed. Unlike the crowded, chaotic, crazy and confusing markets in Morocco which made us feel anxious and tense, this market was a basically a shopping mall (the world's oldest shopping mall) selling lots of beautiful things calmly to tourists. Though I hated the pushy manner of vendors in Marrakech and Fez, the polite warm welcoming manner of vendors here was too easy and pleasing. It lacked the foreign market-vibe I'd become used to. I doubt we'll need to go back since we aren't shopping anyways.
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After lunch of chicken and beef donairs stuffed with French fries, we headed to the Blue Mosque. Non-believers are allowed into the building between prayers times, which is rather unusual in the Muslim world, so we took advantage of the warm welcome. We removed our shoes, I wrapped my head in a scarf and we entered one of the largest buildings I've ever been in. Though it was beautiful, the "Blue Mosque," nicknamed for the blue tiles inside, was not nearly as blue as I'd expected. Still, it's amazing. We left unconverted, but appreciative of the experience.
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Sultan Ahmed Mosque "The Blue Mosque"
We rested before going out to dinner, and Barry did some research. Rodney has convinced us through his restaurant success in Morocco to trust internet searches for good places to eat. We weren't disappointed last night as we enjoyed a traditional Turkish dinner topped off by ice cream for the kids and apple tea for adults.
 
This morning, after another glutinous breakfast, we visited the Topkapi Palace. This centrally located palace was the home of many Sultans. Though many buildings were not so ornate as the Empire's wealth might predict, the property was expansive and the tile was quite impressive. We learned that the buildings were modest to be in line with the Islamic teaching of modesty with wealth. Though that sentiment was visible in most of the buildings, the jewels and treasures collected over the years were too stunning to exhibit any modesty. The Harem was the most impressive part of the palace and watching George and Molly's faces contort as we explained what it was for and what eunuchs were was quite entertaining. 
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Due to the reemergence of some family gastro trouble (sorry for being gross, but it's part of the journey), we returned to the room for a quiet afternoon. Hopefully all will be well tomorrow.
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A view of the Bosphorus and Asian Istanbul from the palace. It's a very busy harbour.
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One of the most elaborate rooms Topkapi Palace's harem.
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Look to the balcony on the minaret. You can see an Imam calling men to noon prayer. Typically we just hear loud speakers, but at the palace, we enjoyed an old-fashioned call.
2 Comments
Lorry
29/11/2015 09:14:25 am

I so enjoy reading your reflections! Thank you for sharing!

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Peter
1/12/2015 10:44:03 am

I now understand better why this place was on your bucket list. I love the family photo shot this year. Well done.

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    Author - Ursula

    We are embarking on the family journey of a lifetime and I am trying to be the bravest and most adventurous version of myself as we begin. Looking forward to this journey is very exciting and rather overwhelming at the same time. We are making huge changes in our lives in hopes of enriching them.

    My blog is a personal account of this trip. I'm happy to it share with my family and friends so they can join me on this journey. 

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